The output shaft assembly is carefully set into the case
as shown. Note the plastic oil funnel insert has also
been transferred to the end of the new countershaft.
A new bearing cone is pressed on to the input shaft. Note
the pipe used to only apply pressure on the inner race.
The bearing is pressed until it seats on the shaft shoulder.
Place the 15 individual bearing rollers into the end
of the input shaft. Moly grease is used to hold them
in position.
The thrust race, thrust bearing and spacer are placed
on the front end of the output shaft.
Install the input shaft on the over the output shaft pilot.
The input shaft must be rotated so the flat portion of
the clutch tooth gear aligns with the counter shaft (opposite
of disassembly in step 17.)
The 5th gear drive assembly goes on next. Install the
5th speed drive gear and blocking ring on the end of the
counter shaft gear. This is followed by the 5th synchronizer
and fork as shown.
Install the roll pin through the 5th shift fork and shift
rail. Also install the synchronizer retainer and snap
ring on the end of the counter shaft.
The case cover and shift fork assembly will go on next.
After thorough cleaning, Bruce checks the forks and selector
plates for damage. Normally a new set of fork pads (included
in more rebuild kits) is all that is needed for a good
rebuildable core.
Selector plates should be closely inspected for cracks
at the corners of notches. Bruce prefers a snug fit between
the selector plate and shift fork for crisp shifting.
The notch can be tightened slightly by squeezing the plate
with pliers or channel locks.
A new O-ring goes on the end of the shifter shaft.
With a bead of black silicone RTV around the mating surface,
the case cover is positioned into place. The shift forks
must engage the synchronizer collars. The synchronizers
must be in the neutral position. Install the top cover
bolts and torque to 10 lb-ft.
Install the speedo gear clip onto the output shaft, then
slide on the speedometer drive gear, followed by the snap
ring. We're using a 7 tooth (yellow) drive gear (refer
to step 8 for more on speedo gear selection.)
With a new tailshaft bushing and seal (see side bar "T5
Rebuild Tips") installed, the tailshaft is prepared
for attachment to the transmission case. Run a bead of
black RTV around the mating surface.
The top two tail shaft bolts should be installed with
Teflon paste sealer to prevent leaking as they enter the
main case.
We'll install a new steel bearing retainer rather than
the stock aluminum unit. Steel will ensure smoother throwout
bearing operation. Note the narrow slot is oriented up.
Install the retainer without shims or RTV until preload
is checked and set (step 60)
Setting preload. Give the input shaft a good smack with
a mallet to ensure the gears and bearings in the case
are fully seated. With a dial indicator placed on the
output shaft, push inward on the input shaft. Add .003
in. to .005 in. to the measurement on the dial indicator
to achieve the appropriate shim to place under the bearing
retainer.
Like an artist, Bruce "signs" each T5 which
comes through his shop for rebuilding. Modern Driveline
is the only rebuilder we know of who'll back their rebuild
with a six month warranty against workmanship.
The rebuild Modern Driveline G-Force T5 is ready for abuse.
We'll fill it with the recommended mixture of 2 parts
G-Force lubricant and 1 quart Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF.
Posted by mth, 01/31/11 10:10pm: Wow, pretty sweet T5 rebuild!
T5 Rebuild Tips Ford T5 tailshaft bushings
(top) are nearly twice as long as the parts store replacements
or as found in the rebuild kits. Obtain the Ford bushing
as it likely offers better support for the driveshaft
yoke.
A variety of tail shaft seals
are available; ranging from a tall dust boot to nearly
none at all. There is no performance difference, you might
consider the larger boot for vehicles which see off road
use.
The output shaft assembly is carefully set into the case
as shown. Note the plastic oil funnel insert has also
been transferred to the end of the new countershaft.
A new bearing cone is pressed on to the input shaft. Note
the pipe used to only apply pressure on the inner race.
The bearing is pressed until it seats on the shaft shoulder.
Place the 15 individual bearing rollers into the end
of the input shaft. Moly grease is used to hold them
in position.
The thrust race, thrust bearing and spacer are placed
on the front end of the output shaft.
Install the input shaft on the over the output shaft pilot.
The input shaft must be rotated so the flat portion of
the clutch tooth gear aligns with the counter shaft (opposite
of disassembly in step 17.)
The 5th gear drive assembly goes on next. Install the
5th speed drive gear and blocking ring on the end of the
counter shaft gear. This is followed by the 5th synchronizer
and fork as shown.
Install the roll pin through the 5th shift fork and shift
rail. Also install the synchronizer retainer and snap
ring on the end of the counter shaft.
The case cover and shift fork assembly will go on next.
After thorough cleaning, Bruce checks the forks and selector
plates for damage. Normally a new set of fork pads (included
in more rebuild kits) is all that is needed for a good
rebuildable core.
Selector plates should be closely inspected for cracks
at the corners of notches. Bruce prefers a snug fit between
the selector plate and shift fork for crisp shifting.
The notch can be tightened slightly by squeezing the plate
with pliers or channel locks. 
A new O-ring goes on the end of the shifter shaft.
With a bead of black silicone RTV around the mating surface,
the case cover is positioned into place. The shift forks
must engage the synchronizer collars. The synchronizers
must be in the neutral position. Install the top cover
bolts and torque to 10 lb-ft. 
Install the speedo gear clip onto the output shaft, then
slide on the speedometer drive gear, followed by the snap
ring. We're using a 7 tooth (yellow) drive gear (refer
to step 8 for more on speedo gear selection.)
With a new tailshaft bushing and seal (see side bar "T5
Rebuild Tips") installed, the tailshaft is prepared
for attachment to the transmission case. Run a bead of
black RTV around the mating surface. 
The top two tail shaft bolts should be installed with
Teflon paste sealer to prevent leaking as they enter the
main case. 
We'll install a new steel bearing retainer rather than
the stock aluminum unit. Steel will ensure smoother throwout
bearing operation. Note the narrow slot is oriented up.
Install the retainer without shims or RTV until preload
is checked and set (step 60)
Setting preload. Give the input shaft a good smack with
a mallet to ensure the gears and bearings in the case
are fully seated. With a dial indicator placed on the
output shaft, push inward on the input shaft. Add .003
in. to .005 in. to the measurement on the dial indicator
to achieve the appropriate shim to place under the bearing
retainer. 
Like an artist, Bruce "signs" each T5 which
comes through his shop for rebuilding. Modern Driveline
is the only rebuilder we know of who'll back their rebuild
with a six month warranty against workmanship.
The rebuild Modern Driveline G-Force T5 is ready for abuse.
We'll fill it with the recommended mixture of 2 parts
G-Force lubricant and 1 quart Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF. 
