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ProRipper

At last count there were nearly a dozen types of aftermarket shifters for the T5 and T45 transmissions. Among the companies with a product to offer was B&M, with their Ripper shifter. We installed their original Ripper a couple years back, in our Project '67 Mustang. That shifter still serves us without a glitch and has taken some serious abuse at the track, including repeated powershifting and being slammed into gear after gear by a 200+ lb. guy who doesn't care whether he breaks it or the car, since he's not the owner! (We're referring to our resident hot-shoe, Victor Silva.)

So when it came time to find a shifter for the T5 in our '88 Mustang LX it was a no brainer which shifter to go with. That is until B&M threw a fork in the road. Apparently the shifter gurus felt the original Ripper design could be improved upon. A few CAD drawings later they came up with the Pro Ripper, a stronger and beefier shifter that looks like it could serve in a Brinks armored carrier - that is, if they used T5's.

Seriously though, in the sea of T5 shifters, it's a toss up with which one to go with. If its any consolation, you know you've got a solid, no B.S., product when Ford SVT chooses to use it on the venerable Cobra R's.

We decided to give the Pro Ripper a shot and install it in the '88, even though that car won't see nearly the abuse required to really challenge this caliber of shifter. Actually the T5 in the '88 is showing signs of impending failure. Third gear whines like an underpaid FM editor, first and second are hard to get into, and reverse has a mind of its own. We're hoping the shifter will make things a little better in the short term.

B&M

B&M Pro Ripper for Mustang T5 and T45 transmissions.
Part No. 45070

Features include billet aluminum and steel construction; a aerospace polymer bearing; adjustable neutral position tension; shift stops and three piece stick.

Installation - B&M Pro Ripper Shifter
1 Installation is about an hour long task. With the knob, leather boot and cover plate removed, we used a 1/2" socket to remove the stick from the shifter. Notice we'd been using an aftermarket stick with our stock shifter in attempts to shorten the throw. 2 Getting the dust boot off is one of the frustrating parts of the otherwise simple installation. The two screws at the back can be reached with a 1/4" drive ratchet and 11/32" socket on an extension. However the two front screws are hidden under the console, and will require patient removal, half-turn at a time, with a open end wrench.
3 With the dust boot removed and the swearing out of the way, we're ready to remove the shifter itself. Once again a sockets make easy work of the rear two bolts, but the front two require a wrench. 4 Note that our '88 was originally an AOD car which we converted to T5(hence the green shifter light and carved up transmission tunnel.)
5 With the four bolts removed, a little prying is all it takes to break the silicone bead holding the stock shifter to the T5. 6 Clean up the old silicone, and make sure none of it falls into the T5 (it'll clog up the fluid passages.)

Note also the plastic shifter cup (arrow). Make sure it's in place, and if it's broken make a trip to a Ford dealer to pic up a new one.
7 One of the upgraded features of the Pro Ripper is that it mounts using these studs, rather than the stock bolts. Studs are a little stronger than bolts, and it makes for easier installation of the new shifter. 8 Another feature of the Pro Ripper is the ability to change the stiffness of the neutral position. If you prefer more side-to-side resistance remove the allen plugs and swap out to the stiffer springs (included.) We left ours alone.
9 Apply a thin bead of silicone between the bolt holes as shown. By the way, regular indoor-outdoor clear silicone works fine for everything on a car or engine, and costs a fraction of the RTV stuff. 10 With the new shifter positioned over the studs, the nuts and washers are secured evenly.
11 The Pro Rippers two-piece stick offers a variety of mounting positions to suit your driving posture and vehicle configuration. We simply bolted the stick to the lower two mounting holes on the shifter to obtain about a 30% shorter throw than stock. 12 The final step is to set the shifter stops. The shift forks in a T5 and T45 are weak and can bend if the shifter is slammed hard into gear. The stops prevent such over extension. Simply put the shifter in gear then turn in the large stop screw until it just makes contact with the shifter. Back it off 1/2 turn and lock it into place. Repeat for the other stop.

 

 

Sources:

B&M Racing & Performance Products
9142 Independence Avenue
Chatsworth, CA 91311 USA
Phone: (818) 882-6422
FAX: (818) 882-6694
www.bmracing.com

13 The leather boot and trim cover are put back in place. It's a shame we have to hide the shiny billet steel, but its a major relief knowing we can shift without the fear of missing a gear or breaking a shift fork.