Installation
Since 1994, when Ford went to a sealed hub and "hat" style rotor, Ford disc brakes have become some of the easiest to work on. This swap requires nothing more than putting on the new rotors and calipers. The Cobra calipers actually come with new brackets which mount to the stock GT spindle without any sort of modification. (The Cobra and GT use the same spindle.) This swap takes less than an hour per side. Factor in a few extra minutes if you are changing the brake hose, as we did, for bleeding the brakes.

The Cobra caliper compared to the stock caliper. While both are made by PBR and both are dual piston designs, the Cobra caliper is bigger and better looking.		A look at the underside of the calipers. Our Cobra calipers from PPI came loaded with caliper brackets and OEM pads. There is nothing to do, we didn't even apply anti-squeal compound.
After cleaning the hub with a wire brush we applied a small amount of anti-seize compound to make future rotor removal easier.		On goes the new Brembo 13" rotor. We opted for the stock flat finish as opposed to slotted, dimpled, or cross drilled. It's really a style choice and not so much of a performance issue as some claim.
The pushnuts we removed earlier go back on over the wheel studs. These are just a factory safety measure should the lug nuts and wheel ever come loose.		It's good practice to clean the rotor surfaces with brake cleaner before the brake pads contact the rotor. This ensures grease and grime don't ruin the new pad material.
The loaded caliper is positioned over the rotor and onto the spindle mount. Each caliper body is marked left and right.		Torque the caliper to spindle bolts to 65ft-lbs. Visible in this picture is a black plug in the mounting point for the brake hose. Leave this in until you're ready to attach the hose.
Shown is the new steel-braided and Teflon® lined brake line (foreground.) We'll need to transfer the stock retaining clip over from the stock line. The lines come with new banjo fittings and crush washers.		The aftermarket brake lines come with a right and left side, identified by the groove in the barrel where the line mounts to the factory body bracket. Match it up to the stock rubber line to identify which side is which.
Place the copper sealing washers between the head of the banjo bolt and the caliper as shown.		Thread the banjo bolt and brake line into the caliper finger tight for now.. Rotate the line so it is positioned along the caliper as shown. Unlike the stock line the aftermarket line does not clock itself into one position.
Secure the other end of the line to the body bracket using the factory retaining clip. Then attach the hardline. Now ensure the soft line is routed clear of any suspension parts before tightening the banjo bolt at the caliper.		Once the new brakes are installed on both sides fill the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid. We prefer synthetic DOT 4 fluid for it's resistance to boiling at high temps.
The new brakes must be bled prior to driving. When bleeding brakes always begin with the caliper the furthest from the master cylinder, in this case the passenger side. Loosen the bleed screw and attach a hose. Pump the pedal slow until the bubbles in the line are gone.		Check the torque on your lug nuts before proceeding to break in the pads. A few moderate to hard stops followed by cooling is the best way to seat the pads.