by Jon Mikelonis
Whether you are
an off-roader looking to light up a trail or a midnight rambler
in need of deserted highway illumination for your musclecar,
auxiliary lighting is an easy and satisfying upgrade when
done right. The aftermarket offers hundreds of options in
supplementary lighting, most over $100 and complete with relays
and wiring kits. However, like any true do-it-yourselfer,
doing it your own way is more rewarding and offers you the
opportunity to bolster the system in case you want to upgrade
in the future. That is exactly what we did in this article.
So when considering the multitude of lighting systems offered
by popular brands like KC and Hella that would make a nice
addition to Project
RedNeck, we opted for a pair of Pro Comp 5"x7"
100 Watt Halogen Lamps. The Pro Comps are sold individually
for about $30.00 each an come without relays and harnesses.
Here are the parts we used. The Pro Comps were from Summit.
They are rated at 100 watts and draw under 9 amps each.
The relay, wiring, switch, panel, terminals, and other
goodies were acquired from a local NAPA store. |
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This isn't a typical starter solenoid. It operates the
same but this one is rated at a lower amperage (80 amps)
because it is for continuous duty. While the 80 amp rating
is not appropriate for a starter, it's more than enough
to suit the lamps used in this article. More importantly,
by using this relay we could comfortably add two additional
Pro Comp 100 watt lamps in the future. See sidebar
for a smaller, less expensive option to the rugged Echlin
Solenoid. |
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Since it was convenient, we located the relay on the radiator
core support, close to the under bumper auxiliary lighting
mounting locations. |
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Next, we "terminalized" some 14 gauge wire with
a large ring terminal. The 14 gauge wire used here could
comfortably handle the load of four 100 watt Pro Comp
lamps. For now, we'll just stick to two lamps. |
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The 14 gauge wire was connected to the side of the relay
nearest the battery.
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Next, we routed it along the core support toward the battery
using tie wraps. |
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A 25 amp fuse was added in-line between the battery and
the solenoid as a safety measure. The fuse selected was
based on the combined lamp load
of just under 20 amps. |
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We "terminalized" the other end of the 14 gauge
wire and connected it to the positive side of the starter
solenoid. It could have also been connected directly to
the battery. |
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Now that direct battery voltage was connected to the relay,
we needed a switch wire to trip the relay when desired.
Fresh 16 gauge wire was fed in from the cab through a
grommet and up to the relay. |
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The switch wire was "terminalized" and connected
to the top terminal on the relay.
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