6. Repeat the procedure
for all sixteen lifters. The wing nut should be
about the same distance down on all the bolts, this
will ensure all the lifters are held up off the
cam in about the same position. |
7. On late model Mustangs
the AC compressor can be unbolted and positioned
out of the way without disconnecting the hoses. |
8. The AC/PS bracket
with can be unbolted from the timing cover and allowed
to hang down with the power steering pump still
attached. Note, dealer installed AC bracket shown. |
9. Three bolts hold
the alternator and smog pump bracket to the head.
Remove these and the entire assembly can be lifted
out. Be sure to disconnect the alternator harness
and the smog pump hose. |
10. Remove only the
timing cover to block bolts, the waterpump and pulley
can remain attached. This saves more time and gasket
costs. The crank pulley must come off. |
11. Before
the timing cover can be removed the harmonic balancer
needs to pulled off. The bolt most likely wont budge,
a great tip is to put a extension bar and socket
on it, then put a long piece or pipe (floor jack
handle) over the extension bar. Place one end of
the pipe under the drivers side frame rail as shown.
Remove the coil wire at the distributor and then
momentarily crank the motor. The bolt is now loose...
works every time. |
12. You probably know
this by now, but be sure to only use only a harmonic
balancer removal tool to pull the damper off. |
13. With the balancer
off the timing cover can now be removed entirely.
Remember to remove the four bolts that hold the
pan to the timing cover -these are usually missed
and result is a cracked timing cover. Never pry
against the timing cover until you are certain all
bolts are removed. |
14. Unbolt and remove
the timing chain, followed by the cam retention
plate. |
15. Now the lifter
tools come into play... slide the cam out carefully
and slowly. If you feel the cam hang up try rotating
it then pulling. If it absolutely wont go stop and
check the magnet tools to make sure a lifter is
not too low. |
|
16. On late model
Mustangs with AC you'll need to removed the radiator
and swing the AC condenser out of the way to allow
the cam to clear.
|
17. Slide the new
cam in place. The beauty of roller cams is they
don't require a break in period so no moly lube
is needed on the cam lobes, a little oil is all
that is necessary. |
18. The cam retention
plate and timing chain are reinstalled. If the cam
is being installed straight-up, make sure the crank
gear mark and cam gear "dot" are lined
up as shown. |
19.Use
the cork timing cover tabs included in most timing
cover gasket kits. We like to RTV them to the cover
and let them set for a few minutes to prevent slippage.
A new front pan seal is also installed. |
20. RTV is smeared
on the mating surface on the block and pan. Note
the stock rubber oil pan gasket is cut flush where
the pan meets the block. The new cork gaskets will
provide the sealing. We also recommend removing
the stock locating dowels, otherwise the cork seals
will tend to move out of position when installing
the cover. |
21.THe timing cover,
with waterpump and pulley never removed, is re-installed
and torqued evenly. Be sure to put the four oil
pan bolts back. The brackets, hoses, and other items
all go back on at this point. |
22. The pushrods and
rockers are reinstalled and adjusted. Adjustment
of hydraulic lifters is simple - start with cylinder
#1, rotate the crank by hand, as the exhaust pushrod
starts to move up off (valve just opening) stop
and adjust the preload on the intake side. Preload
is adjusted by turning the adjusting nut on the
rocker until there is no slack between the pushrod
and lifter. Then give the nut an additional half
to one full turn. Secure the lock nut. Continue
to rotate the crank, when the intake valve fully
opens, then begins to close, stop and set the exhaust
rocker. Continue setting all the cylinders in this
manner. |
Source:
Anderson
Ford Motorsport
Rt. 10 W
Clinton, IL 61727
800-234-3106
|
Posted by fivepoint0, 03/27/10 08:35am:
I'm get a set of these soon. looks like they'll save alot of time.
Posted by 64post, 09/21/10 08:25am:
The Idea is great, 1 question? how do you do an accurate cam timing with a hydraulic lifter in the #1 intake position?
Posted by retyler, 04/05/11 06:16pm:
The idea is great if you have link bar lifters, How many 5.0 have link bars. Doesn't do much for the dog bone.
Posted by chirag, 04/09/11 09:33am:
@retyler: tool works with regular dogbones too - you only need to pull/hold the lifter up so that the cam can slide out without dropping the lifter in.
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