Shown is the correct order of bushing and washers
(the top nut, washer and bushing being installed
once the shock is in place.)
The new shock absorber is fed into location from
under the vehicle. Ensure that the upper shaft passes
through the hole in the trunk floor.
From the shock access panel inside the hatch, install
the bushing, washer, and nut over the protruding
shaft. Torque the nut so that the bushing just barely
bulges as shown. Then install the secondary nut
to lock the first.
The supplied adjustment knobs are used to dial in
the shock dampening rate. We started out the front
and rear of the vehicle at the softest setting (near
stock.) There is about 180 degrees of infinite adjustment.
Removal of the rear springs begins with disconnecting
the sway bar from the lower control arm.
With a jack placed under the lower control arm,
remove the rear mounting bolt. Before lowering the
jack, make sure jack stands are under both the axle
and vehicle frame!
Lower the jack slowly. The rear spring drops out
without much drama.
The Eibach rear spring is a good 1" lower than
stock. This will help get the car to a dead level
stance, helping equal out weight balance.
As with the front, we're using new polyurethane
spring isolators. Place the spring, pigtail side
on the control arm, and jack it up.
Line up the control arm bushing with the axle mount
and slide in the factory bolt. Torque to 60-75-lb.ft.
An often neglected step, especially when buying
used springs, is the installation of a shorter axle
travel snubber. Eibach provides one (left) with
their spring kits.
Replace the sway bar to finish up the job. The end
result performs as stellar as it looks.
Our Cobra now sports an aggressive
stance, with the car being lowered 1" in the front
and about 1 1/4" at the rear. Ride is what you'd
want from a sports car - firm yet comfortable, comparable
to a modern European two-door. With a brake job we'll
be ready for the cone course.
Shown is the correct order of bushing and washers
(the top nut, washer and bushing being installed
once the shock is in place.)
The new shock absorber is fed into location from
under the vehicle. Ensure that the upper shaft passes
through the hole in the trunk floor.
From the shock access panel inside the hatch, install
the bushing, washer, and nut over the protruding
shaft. Torque the nut so that the bushing just barely
bulges as shown. Then install the secondary nut
to lock the first.
The supplied adjustment knobs are used to dial in
the shock dampening rate. We started out the front
and rear of the vehicle at the softest setting (near
stock.) There is about 180 degrees of infinite adjustment.
Removal of the rear springs begins with disconnecting
the sway bar from the lower control arm.
With a jack placed under the lower control arm,
remove the rear mounting bolt. Before lowering the
jack, make sure jack stands are under both the axle
and vehicle frame!
Lower the jack slowly. The rear spring drops out
without much drama.
The Eibach rear spring is a good 1" lower than
stock. This will help get the car to a dead level
stance, helping equal out weight balance.
As with the front, we're using new polyurethane
spring isolators. Place the spring, pigtail side
on the control arm, and jack it up.
Line up the control arm bushing with the axle mount
and slide in the factory bolt. Torque to 60-75-lb.ft.
An often neglected step, especially when buying
used springs, is the installation of a shorter axle
travel snubber. Eibach provides one (left) with
their spring kits.
Replace the sway bar to finish up the job. The end
result performs as stellar as it looks. 
