91. With everything removed from housing we clean the housing again with parts cleaner.		92. With the housing cleaned, we must now remove the carrier bearings so we can replace them. This is optional but highly recommended. The bearings on each side of the carrier are pressed on. We must use a two leg puller to remove them because Ford failed to place an undercut on the carrier housing under the bearing to allow use of a bearing cutter type puller. This will be the most difficult operation of the entire project. Note: In the casting of the carrier there are two indentations. This is where the teeth of the puller will be placed to pull the bearing from the bottom.
Using the Two Leg Puller to Remove Carrier Bearings Referencing image number 93 below, the two leg puller is used with an impact socket for spacing. The impact socket must be small enough for the carrier bearing to pull over it, but large enough to sit on the edge of the housing. Turn the center screw of the puller and tap on the screw to jar the bearing loose and turning the center screw. Here is where things can be very frustrating so be prepared: As when you're using any two leg puller it will destroy the cage of the bearing 90% of the time before actually pulling the bearing. This is where a cutter type bearing puller would be real handy to be able to use. But we can't due to the design of the carrier. A two leg must be used. Since we had planned ahead and were going to change the bearings destroying them was not a concern for us. Now here is a big hint. If you destroy the bearing cage and find your rollers all over the garage don't fret. You have done yourself a favor. With the rollers and cage removed you now will have access to the inner race. Get your high speed cutter wheel out and cut a groove in the inner race. Do not cut through race and into the housing as there is no need. Just cut a small groove in the inner race from top to bottom. This creates a weak point in the race so when we put our puller back on the race, it will come off much easier. Repeat for the other bearing.
93. The two leg puller in place on the carrier bearing.		94. We will now remove our old ring gear. Simply remove the bolts and if you have replacements discard the old bolts. Lightly tap the gear off the housing.
95. Showing bearings removed and ring gear removed. Clean everything with parts cleaner and set aside to dry.		96. This is the Ford Racing ring and pinion set. It comes with the Ring Gear, Pinion, a new pinion nut, a assortment of pinion shims, and a crush sleeve.
97. This is our Summit Racing install kit. It comes with pinion bearings, two carrier bearings, ring gear bolts, pinion seal, pinion nut, crush sleeve, gear marking compound, and a small assortment carrier shims. Should be all we need.		98. First thing we want to do is take our new ring gear and run a file across the back to remove any burrs, or high spots that may be present.
99. Next put the ring gear in the oven at 200 degrees for about 30 minutes. This will heat the gear and make it expand so it will be easier to install.		100. Put the hot ring gear on the housing and install two new bolts (if your kit came with them) and torque them to 77 ft lbs. These two bolts will be removed later so keep track of which ones they are.
101. Next, apply Loctite to the other ring gear bolts and install them and torque to 77 ft lbs. Install from one side to the other alternating where bolts are installed on the gear.		102. Then remove the first two bolts and add the Loctite to them and reinstall. You must now re-torque all the bolts using the alternating side method of torquing to 77 ft lbs. Make sure the ring gear is securely seated against the housing.
103. Here is the ring gear fully installed.		104. Next, we will install the new carrier bearings. Apply anti-seize to the carrier housing where the bearings will be installed.
105. Next place the new bearing in place. And remove the bearing cup. Care must be observed to keep the bearing cone and roller together as a matched set.		106. Next, tap the bearing onto the housing being careful not to damage the bearing or cage. Go slow and gently tap around the inner race to seat the bearing all the way onto the housing until it seats against the shoulder of the carrier housing. A hint here is to use the inner race from the old bearing turned upside down to tap the bearing onto the housing.
107. Here is the bearing installed and the cup on the bearing. Tip: Place some wheel bearing grease on the bearing cone to keep the cup in place while working with the carrier.		108. Repeat the process for the other carrier bearing.
109. Other carrier bearing in place.		110. Tapping other carrier bearing on to housing.
111. Other carrier bearing seated.		112. With both carrier bearings installed, we now move back to the housing. We will need to install the inner and front bearing cups into the housing.
113. Apply anti-seize to the inner surfaces of the housing where the bearing cups will go.		114. Place the new bearing cup in place and gently tap bearing cup into housing using a punch or bar.
115. Using a mirror ensure the bearing cup is fully seated into the housing. There should be no gap between the bearing cup and housing.		116. Showing bearing cup fully seated.
117. Top view showing bearing cup fully seated.		118. We will repeat the process for the inner bearing cup.
119. Put the new bearing cup in place and gently tap bearing cup into housing using a punch or bar.		120. The bearing cup sits countersunk into the case. Once the bearing cup is seated level to the case, we will place the old bearing cup over it and tap it until it is fully seated.

(Swapping the Gears Continued and Gear Set-Up )