151. Now that we have an acceptable pattern we can start our final assembly.		152. We will remove our carrier bearing saddle bolts and apply Loctite and reinstall them.
153. Then torque the differential bearing cap bolts to 77 ft lbs.		154. We will now remove our pinion flange bolt.
155. Using our puller we will remove the pinion flange.		156. Here we have removed the pinion flange again.
157. We once again remove our oil slinger washer.		158. We will remove the forward pinion bearing again also.
159. Now we install our new crush sleeve.		160. Reinstall the forward pinion bearing.
161. Reinstall the oil slinger washer.		162. Now lightly press them in.
163. Next we will install our new pinion oil seal. We will coat the outside edge with RTV prior to installing.		164. Now we place the seal in place and gently drive the seal into place by tapping around the edge with a soft block punch. Careful not to damage the seal.
165. Then when fully seated wipe the excess RTV from the seals edge.		166. We can now reinstall our pinion flange.
167. Then we will install a new pinion nut.		168. This time we only tighten the pinion nut snug. We will not be concerned about removing the front to back movement in the bearings this time. Just get it tight for now.
The following two steps (Photos 169 and 170) are important when using the new crush sleeve. We will use our wrecking bar setup to hold the pinion from turning. Once again we will turn the pinion nut in 1/8th turns and re-check our running torque with our torque wrench; spinning thru one revolution between checks again. But the difference this time is we will need much more force to get our running torque correct. We will need to crush the new crush sleeve this time and we must be very attentive to our torque. And NEVER back the pinion nut off. If you do, the crush sleeve will need to be replaced. So go slow and re-check your torque often as you go. It will sneak up and rise quickly once the sleeve starts to crush. The torque required can be in excess of 200 ft lbs to do this. But remember we are not concerned with the torque we put on the nut. We want to obtain our running torque.
169. Turning the pinion nut in 1/8th turns and re-checking our running torque with our torque wrench.		170. Going slow and re-checking the torque often as we go.
171. After we get our running torque on our pinion we will want to do a final recheck of our gear mesh pattern...		172. ... it should not have changed.
173. Our pattern remained acceptable with little to no change.		174. This just tells us we had it right. Success!
175. Next we will push our axles back into place...		176. ...and push our U washers back into place on the axles.
177. The axles and U washers go in very easy.		178. During assembly, our differential clutch spring got slightly moved, which prevented the axles from fully seating when pulled on.
179. Simply lightly tap the differential clutch spring into place so that the U washers slide between the openings.		180. Pull again, if the axles do not show in the differential pinion shaft hole as they did above then they are fully seated.

(Final Assembly Continued and Axle Reinstallation)